Just a little show and tell on how I assembled this rig. This is what seems to work well for me. You can try this setup and use it as a starting point to adjust from and achieve the performance you desire. Hope this helps!

Links in cm measured from exposed metal between plastic ends:
Front bottom links 2.2 cm
Front upper link 2.4 cm
Rear bottom links 2.4 cm
Rear upper links 2.5 cm
Panhard bar 2.2 cm
Top steering link 2.7 cm
Bottom steer link 5.5 cm

On July 25th banggood contacted me and informed me about their affiliate program after seeing my YouTube channel. They also have given me a discount coupon code to pass on to my viewers for 20% off the WPL C34 RTR version. Click the link below and enter the code upon checkout for a great deal on a RTR C34! Dont wait to long offer expires on July 31, 2019.

Link to RTR C34:
www.banggood.com/custlink/DvmGSCo4mr

Coupon code for 20% off:
BGC34CAR

C34 Regular kit version:
www.banggood.com/custlink/v3DKZJj6bL
Coupon code: BG34KRAC

Mn 99:
www.banggood.com/custlink/GD3mStKR5C
Coupon code:BGRA99

Military blue RTR MN 96:
www.banggood.com/custlink/3KD395KyrR
Coupon code: BGMN96RA

Military tan RTR MN 96:
www.banggood.com/custlink/mvDG8VmyrF

RTR MN d90:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vmKGSgG6tf
Coupon code:BGRA90

Kit MN d90:
www.banggood.com/custlink/KvvDZ4vgZm
Coupon code: BGRA90K

MN Model mn45 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGDG9JjNE8
Coupon code: BGRA45

MN Model MN45 rtr:
www.banggood.com/custlink/D3KKSCLQRLnd
Coupon code: BGMNRA

My other WPLs:

WPL C24 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/KvGvSWln4Y
Coupon code: BG24KRA

WPL C14 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/KDKGicLn6k
Coupon code: BGC24RA

WPL B36 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/vvDmSWoAnF
Coupon code: BGB36RA

WPL B16 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/DDvG9JjAbl
Coupon code: BGW16RA

WPL B24zh RTR:
www.banggood.com/custlink/KGmv9ranA2
Coupon code: BGZHRA

WPL B24 kit:
www.banggood.com/custlink/mmvDZclbMh
Coupon code: BGB24RA

Comments

    • Mango Productions
      Mango Productions

      Very helpful, thank you for the upload!

      about 2 months ago
    • mr2ontrack
      mr2ontrack

      did you cut the Panhard rod? Mine seems to be too long for 2.2cm, i cannot tighten it further than 2.5cm and that is way too long

      about 3 months ago
    • HolyWallE
      HolyWallE

      Is the WPL C34 axle the same as WPL C14?

      about 3 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to HolyWallE

      The c34 axles have metal ring and pinion gears and the km version is full metal. The c14 is plastic and metal unless your lucky and get a new batch that I heard come with metal gears now too.

      about 3 months ago
    • Adam Davis
      Adam Davis

      Yes, BLUE Locktight. VERY important. You can get it at harbor freight for $3 for a pretty big bottle that lasts quite awhile. It's called threadlock #42. Works great. The red locktight doesn't break down and let loose until it's over 400 degrees. VERY hard to get off. The blue is thread and nut glue. Great stuff. Oh, yeah, GO Run That RC!

      about 3 months ago
    • camann33
      camann33

      Just got this model, can I paint it to match more my real FJ40? Or is it a bad idea to paint these?

      about 4 months ago
    • Adi JSR
      Adi JSR

      Hey bro, nice explanation on those, you make a great content. Keep it up.
      Btw where did you get those gears for 2 speed gearbox? Maybe some links? would be great. Thanks!

      about 4 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Adi JSR

      I purchased the metal gears on banggood. I just type wpl in the search and scroll away! That's how I find new wpl parts that pop up.

      about 4 months ago
    • raimba richi
      raimba richi

      hi, i triy to following setup link rod same as yours, but i think its still need to adjust especially when turn it kind the tire litle bit tilted. and othe issue with the front tire always come out the rim (i try to glue it now). any advise for those?

      about 5 months ago
    • raimba richi
      raimba richi In reply to raimba richi

      @RunThatRC noted, thanks mate

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to raimba richi

      Yes if you follow the measurements it will bring you close but since all the cars have slight differences in assembly tolerances you have to change the length a little to get that perfect length. The wheels have to be clean then glued good all the way around. The tire tilt is something I deal with just to get a better driveshaft angle. You can make the wheel connecting rod longer to make that less pronounced.

      about 5 months ago
    • larry Looney
      larry Looney

      Good video

      about 5 months ago
    • Tonys Rc Tech
      Tonys Rc Tech

      Fantastic info, great useful Tips, thanks for sharing this great video bro 👍😍👍

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Tonys Rc Tech

      Thanks bro! I appreciate your support!

      about 5 months ago
    • JDLightnin
      JDLightnin

      Your 6x6s are not getting much attention since you got the C34km LOL

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to JDLightnin

      Haha yes I am noticing this as well. They need a mud run for sure!

      about 5 months ago
    • Will P
      Will P

      Having a hard time figuring out the difference between body screws 1x4 and 2x4 and 1x2. There are 3 bags of screws and some have washers.

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Will P

      I haven't used the washers lol. I didn't follow the instructions to assemble. I just use what seems to be the right length and size. That's what I like about these kits. It isn't to crucial.

      about 5 months ago
    • anything rc
      anything rc

      Great tips anyone who upgrades their wpl take notice ,took me an age to get links sorted !!!

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to anything rc

      It does take a bit to get the length right and set to where you want it.

      about 5 months ago
    • Pedro Silva
      Pedro Silva

      Can u make a video how do u assemble the front axle? My Pinion and gear are grinding and i don't now how to softer it... Just frustrating...
      By the way great video.

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Pedro Silva

      @Pedro Silva nice! Glad that helped.

      about 5 months ago
    • Pedro Silva
      Pedro Silva In reply to Pedro Silva

      @RunThatRC
      Thanks a lot that was the issue so smooth now 😁 hehehe

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Pedro Silva

      First I recommend taking off the 5mm hexes. Try assembling without it and see if the grinding stops. If it does it is the hexes that the wheels attach to that are causing the grinding. They will need to be installed a little less inserted to the axle shaft. Let me know if that helps.

      about 5 months ago
    • Hansaka Nakulugamage
      Hansaka Nakulugamage

      Thanks for the tips bro 🙏 Going to be very useful once I get mine

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Hansaka Nakulugamage

      @Hansaka Nakulugamage that's the only thing I hate is the wait! You will like it trust me

      about 5 months ago
    • Hansaka Nakulugamage
      Hansaka Nakulugamage In reply to Hansaka Nakulugamage

      RunThatRC just now I purchased a blue one 😄😄😄
      Now just have to wait. Maybe 3 weeks

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Hansaka Nakulugamage

      O man you are going to enjoy this one. All the metal parts are satisfying to put together. I dont even want to scratch the axles up but already did lol. Great truck with nostalgia for me. I used to ride in my grandfather's fj40 when i was young. Same color blue and white as well!

      about 5 months ago
    • model nutty
      model nutty

      really slow going with the X-acto saw blade to make C-24 hood openable... wanting the battery pack right over the front axles, if you've done the hood opening thing, you already know the "fun" involved. really can't do a tailgate delete, the floor of the bed sits too high for it to be a simple job.

      newer C-24 kit did come with the lower ratio tan gearbox and the brass axle bevel pinions like the C-14 did, so 2 for 2 on that now :)

      got pair 6v 600 rpm N20 gear motors on the way to pop into the B-1 that's getting this C-24 frame under it, moving parts around is going to be a little extra fun with putting the C-24 body onto the B-1 frame. B-1 currently has fairly fresh pair of 6v 400 rpm N20's, a bit slow... might even go tan gearbox with a 130 motor (whatever is a little faster for trail walking), the B-1 is still running its stock RTR bang-bang steering board but fed 2S 7.4v instead of 6v, the TOY board really hates trying to feed a 180 size motor. might have to upgrade it after the C-24 chassis slapped under it, lol who knows!

      about 5 months ago
    • model nutty
      model nutty In reply to model nutty

      just the brass bevel pinions, and yeah its enough!

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to model nutty

      Are they shipping with both ring and pinion metal? Or just pinion. My b24k seems to have a great gear mesh with the plastic ring and metal pinion. No shimming or anything. Still going strong even with my semi abusive driving style lol.

      about 5 months ago
    • BernhardBB
      BernhardBB

      Why ,,no q65 willys... you do so nice videos,,, Thanks

      about 5 months ago
    • BernhardBB
      BernhardBB In reply to BernhardBB

      @RunThatRC Do it,,, so great looking ,,and near to scale to willys,,9.67 % in 1-10 size ,with the right update it works real well to,,

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to BernhardBB

      Thanks for the support! Should I get the q65? It does look ok. I was going to purchase but the mn model mn45 was released so I got that for now. Maybe I will try and look for a good deal and get one soon!

      about 5 months ago
    • Mel Myrtle
      Mel Myrtle

      Great video lots of great information . Yeah I agree I always use blue loctite myself. Can't wait to see the metal gear set in the 2 speed . That's a great idea I was thinking the same thing lol though I do love my FlySky's I'm thinking of getting the wpl 4 channel transmitter, ESC ,sound unit for this one . Have you tried one yet?

      about 5 months ago
    • model nutty
      model nutty In reply to Mel Myrtle

      yup, a 180 motor can burn the power section of the RTR board quick. luckily they're only about 5 bucks to replace. they do well with a dual N20-N30 gear motor setup, possibly a 130 motor with the lower ratio tan gearbox too. no clue if the WPL 4ch setup can feed 12-15A of current without choking or burning.

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Mel Myrtle

      No I have not. I seem to have bad luck with there radio gear. I had 3 now only 1 esc receiver combo works

      about 5 months ago
    • Anthony Macaluso
      Anthony Macaluso

      There is no way that measurement is in centimeters

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Anthony Macaluso

      I am measuring from the exposed metal area between the plastic rod ends.

      about 5 months ago
    • idworkhard
      idworkhard

      I also like using the blue medium-strength Loctite...speaking of stripping the screws: I found that 3mm (1/8") long grub screws are much better than 1.5mm (1/16"), so I stocked up on those.

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to idworkhard

      Nice! That's a good idea. Alot of room for more engagement.

      about 5 months ago
    • The foam Farmer
      The foam Farmer

      Can't wait for mine to come

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to The foam Farmer

      You will like it!

      about 5 months ago
    • Rc Garage ph
      Rc Garage ph

      Rtr you look like so happy

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Rc Garage ph

      O I am happy🤘

      about 5 months ago
    • Dustin M
      Dustin M

      Getting ready to start putting mine together. Thanks for the tips.

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Dustin M

      Hope it helps!

      about 5 months ago
    • Will P
      Will P

      Heck yeah man great content !

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Will P

      Thanks!

      about 5 months ago
    • Frank Blue
      Frank Blue

      I am just getting in to the WPL models, this information may turn out to be useful. Thanks see you on your next video Robert

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Frank Blue

      @model nutty hahaha u tell them wassup nutty!

      about 5 months ago
    • model nutty
      model nutty In reply to Frank Blue

      @Frank Blue, pay attention to this channel, Gabriel Silvaz, HobbyDaddy, you'll pick up on all the good inexpensive budget mods between the video and comment content. my own current favorite recent budget beast build is a C-14 with diff locked JJRC axles, the Fayee 6 spoke rims+tires (3/4" wider total), HobbyDaddy "just add a motor" dual 130's for power (older higher ratio black #316 gearbox). runs a fair fast walking pace with torque on tap to climb with too. total cost about 46 bucks, shocks set up loose the extra width giving more+easier flex, and much harder to tip it over sideways. it does involve little parts mods to get one together like this, but great little performer considering how inexpensive it was to slap together.
      YES RUN AWAY FROM THESE FAST!

      about 5 months ago
    • RunThatRC
      RunThatRC In reply to Frank Blue

      O man drop the WPL and run the other way! LoL its addicting and I dont even know how I got them all muhahahahha! Your gonna have a lot of fun modding these!

      about 5 months ago