*UPDATE* Rear calipers can be put into 'service mode', eliminating the need to 'turn' them in, and simply push. I still recommend purging the fluid out of the bleeder though. There's several good videos instructing how to enter the service mode.

INTRO: I needed to tear my brakes apart but couldn't find a detailed video for this generation of Ford Fusion, which is different from any other car I've seen. I was able to figure it out using past knowledge so I figured I'd make a video to help the next person.

Comments

    • Peter Maenke
      Peter Maenke

      *UPDATE* Rear calipers can be put into 'service mode', eliminating the need to 'turn' them in, and simply push. I still recommend purging the old, potentially roasted, fluid out of the bleeder though. Don't forget to top up! There's several good videos instructing how to enter the service mode on these cars. Thanks.

      about 1 year ago
    • Robert Buchanan
      Robert Buchanan

      Did this solve your rubbing noise, particularly at the rear driver side that had the imbalanced pad wear? I'm assuming it was resolved by cleaning up your caliper pins? Thanks

      about 17 days ago
    • Joseph Jolly
      Joseph Jolly

      Thanks for the video.👍

      about 26 days ago
    • RigoRocks23
      RigoRocks23

      I dont like relying on electronics or the maintenance mode everyone says to put it in. I'd rather spin the caliper in by hand and know its fully seated.these mechanisms fail with time and would hate to find out the hard way. For example people are lazy and tighten lug nuts with impact guns. i always tighten lug nuts by hand.

      about 1 month ago
    • That Black Dude
      That Black Dude

      Oh great. Those darn hex things.

      about 1 month ago
    • jojo Book
      jojo Book

      How much For that special piece

      about 1 month ago
    • Chris
      Chris

      crud i watched the whole thing thinking you were doing a brake job and you didnt do the rotors. New title . Brake pad job . I dont like the idea of the square tool , seems like you can slip and mess up the seal. I cant say i have ever seen the grooves in any of my older cars, it must be a new thing. C clamp

      about 2 months ago
    • Steven Ray
      Steven Ray

      Awesome how-to.

      about 2 months ago
    • ricosuava21
      ricosuava21

      When putting the Caliper pins back into position what will help you from chancing cross threading is take turns tightening top then bottom in rotations which will save you time and headache in the long run.

      about 5 months ago
    • Pete Kazeck
      Pete Kazeck

      Good video, wish I would have watched the whole thing b4 I replaced my rear brakes ( I just skimmed). Because I turned the piston in with the tool and it still wasn't in far enough, I watched more of the video and saw you had to push the piston in - After - screwing it to the stop. I've done other brakes and I have the tool to just push your piston back in so once I saw these screwed in I didnt think it needed both methods.
      I dont bleed my brake fluid off either, I just loosen the brake filler cap to relieve back pressure and it seems to work well. << Is there some hazard to not bleeding the line ? >>

      How do you put the rear calipers into 'Service Mode ' ?? Thanks

      about 5 months ago
    • Bob Miller
      Bob Miller

      You should always spray the bleeder screws with penetrating oil before doing a brake job. In fact, you should do that hours before starting. Even doing it the day before the brake job isn't a bad idea. (You may do this in your video but I didn't see penetrating oil in your supplies.) I've done all the work on my cars, trucks, and motorcycles for 52 years. I can't even count how many brake jobs I've done. Anyone who has done many brake jobs knows that not spraying the bleeder valves can lead to a minor disaster. That is, the bleeder screw breaks off or strips. If that happens you have to replace the caliper or wheel cylinder. This is very basic. I'm really suprised that you didn't do that.

      Also, from what I've read about this car, you don't have to spin the caliper pistons to compress them. I found this out while researching this model because I'm going to do a brake job on my daughter's 2016 Fusion later this week. In fact, you mentioned that to finish getting the pistons all the way in, you just pushed on them. That said, the information I found was only dealing with the rear brakes so the front pistons may have to be turned while compressing them. Oddly, I checked a couple other videos about Ford Fusion front brakes and they show the front caliper pistons being hollow - no spinning necessary - so it appears that changes have been made over the years. I'll soon know for sure.


      You should NOT grease the outside of the pads! That just attracts brake dust that can lead to more problems. You can, however, use an anti-squeal / anti-rattle product which dries to a rubbery consistency. But you don't even have to do that in your case because Ford included an anti-sqeal /anti-rattle material with your pads. There's a reason they included those and greasing them defeated their purpose and posed a potential problem. Those anti-rattle are excellent. You ARE NOT supposed to grease them.


      You should always thoroughly clean your rotors when doing a brake job. I see you have brake cleaner but I didn't see you use it. You really should also lightly sand the rotors when replacing pads. Here's why: Brake pads deposit small amounts of brake material into the surface of the rotor. In fact, that's necessary for proper braking and that's why you often hear of procedures to properly break in new brakes. That's to properly transfer pad material to the rotors. However, when you replace the pads but not the rotors, the rotors have material from the old pads on them and that may not be exactly the same as the old pad material. That can result in the brakes squeeking. So the idea is to clean all that old material off the rotors so that only material from the new pads is transferred to them. So, it's a good idea to not only clean the disks with brake cleaner but also to lightly sand them. (Just a few passes with medium or fine sandpaper.) I forgot to do this on a brake job I did on a Honda Pilot a couple years ago and they squealed like crazy for months. The squeal eventually went away but it was really lound while it lasted. If you don't clean the rotors thorough of old pad material imbedded in the fine pores of the disks, you will probably be OK but why take the chance when preventing the problem only takes a minute?

      Also, you should not just top off your brake fluid when doing a brake job. You should flush the entire system. Brake fluid should be replaced every two or three years and, if you are doing a brake job, it's almost certainly due. But there's a problem: ABS systems should really be flushed too and that requires a special scan tool or other software. For another vehicle I have, I have a software tool that I use on my laptop to do that. The procedure (with that vehicle - it may vary with other vehicles) is to first bleed the brakes in the normal way. Then use the tool to bleed the ABS system. That pushes old brake fluid into the lines so the brakes should then be bled again in the normal way. However, a trick to get the ABS system to cycle is to simply take the vehicle out on gravel, ice, or something else where the ABS system will cycle when the brakes are hit hard. But keep in mind that if you haven't bled the brakes the normal way first, that will force old brake fluid into the ABS pumps so you really should bleed the brakes the normal way first, activate the ABS pumps while bleeding them and then bleed them the normal way again. But, again, the procedure may vary with different vehicles but that's the general idea. That said, if you can't bleed the ABS system, it's still a good idea to just bleed them the normal way but a truly complete job requires the ABS system to be bled.


      Lastly, (I see you added a note about this) while getting information on my daughter's brakes, I found that Fusions have an electric rear parking brake. You didn't do a rear brake job but, if you did, you have to deactivate the electric rear brake to allow you to push the piston in. There is a scan tool that can do that but you can also do it without that tool and there are videos on YT about how to do that. It's simply a procedure you do while seated in the car using the ignition key, brake pedal, gas pedal, and parking brake switch. There's another similar procedure to reactivate and adjust the gap of the parking brake motor. However, your comment about still recommending purging fluid from the caliper has nothing to do with deactivating the parking brake and pushing in the piston. You DO NOT have to open the bleeder screw when pushing in any caliper piston. It doesn't hurt anything to do it but it's completely unnecessary.

      about 6 months ago
    • Peter Maenke
      Peter Maenke In reply to Bob Miller

      Great input! Very thorough. I agree with pretty much all of your points. I would say my biggest mistake was missing the E-parking brake deactivation. I've tried to draw attention to the correct method in the description and comments.


      It's refreshing to hear your input about full bleeding, too. Most comments are simply that I should have pushed the fluid right back to the master with a C-clamp. Even i know that's not a good idea. Master cylinders like pushing, not getting pushed.


      Thanks again.

      about 6 months ago
    • Bill Hammerash
      Bill Hammerash

      On my 13 there are backing plates on the original pads. The oem replacement pads are like yours with that white film where plate would go. The plates pop right off old pads. Are you supposed to put on new? Changed lot of brakes and never seen this before.

      about 6 months ago
    • Jose Vazquez
      Jose Vazquez

      Thankyou for your video very helpful and well explained

      about 6 months ago
    • Jose Soto
      Jose Soto

      Thank you very much u just saved me some time and $$$ good job!!!

      about 7 months ago
    • Michael J DeStefano
      Michael J DeStefano

      You did a Great job! Thanks for taking the time to show others.

      about 7 months ago
    • rico300zx
      rico300zx

      My caliper won’t screw back in, what can I do?

      about 7 months ago
    • Jonathan Vargas
      Jonathan Vargas In reply to rico300zx

      did you find a fix

      about 4 months ago
    • Luis Fernando Velásquez Piña
      Luis Fernando Velásquez Piña

      hello friend a question, in the change of the rear brakes don´t you have to be careful with the electric brakes? And the other question , is not better to rectify the discs when you change the brakes?

      about 7 months ago
    • IRJustman
      IRJustman

      My 2016 Fusion looked exactly the same, so I used yours as a guide for my own brake job. I just replaced all four pads, but the right-rear rotor is shot, but I can't afford a rotor presently, but will be able to in about a week or so.

      about 8 months ago
    • mark wisner
      mark wisner

      You did not replace or turn the rotors, Every time you change your pads you should change your rotors. At a minimum, you should measure the rotor's thickness to make sure it is not too thin. Or am I missing something?

      about 10 months ago
    • Luis Terrazas
      Luis Terrazas In reply to mark wisner

      I Agree with Mark Wisner you should at least resurface, rotors if not replace  otherwise good video

      about 9 months ago
    • dennis fieldman
      dennis fieldman

      Mine look like a clip why doesn't yours have a clip

      about 11 months ago
    • dennis fieldman
      dennis fieldman

      How do you disable to work on car?

      about 11 months ago
    • M Moffatt
      M Moffatt

      Well done.

      about 1 year ago
    • horace vickery
      horace vickery

      A scissor jack not a great idea

      about 1 year ago
    • Manuel Garcia
      Manuel Garcia

      Thanks awesome video!

      about 1 year ago
    • Joey Ingles
      Joey Ingles

      This car has EBS brakes on the rear. You must first put the car in Brake Service Mode. You should not bleed them.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zq9wEPetVeg

      about 1 year ago
    • Renzo Moncada
      Renzo Moncada

      Rear breaks are equipped with electronic retractable piston. There is no need ( manually) to use the tool and or bleeder valve to retract the break piston

      about 1 year ago
    • DBG MEDIA INC
      DBG MEDIA INC

      2014 dirty Ford fusion lol

      about 1 year ago
    • alan boyer
      alan boyer

      Great video, you got natural talent and personality behind the lens.
      Bravo, encore!

      about 1 year ago
    • Luqman Jutt
      Luqman Jutt

      I have chang the brak pad back weels .but runing th car is showing the meter of write now,parking function...................no par fect of brack

      about 1 year ago
    • Israel Maya
      Israel Maya

      I think you explained the process very well. You spoke slowly, went step by step, and articulated clearly. Traits of a good teacher. Thank you.

      about 1 year ago